Specialty Coffee: The Story of a Passion
Several years ago, in a small town in Colombia, a coffee farmer named Pedro decided to challenge the large coffee monopolies that were buying from him and his fellow coffee farmers, forcing prices and setting production quotas.
Pedro decided to return to the traditional farming methods his grandfather had taught him, avoiding chemicals and caring for each coffee plant with great care. His colleagues didn't understand, so he would produce much less and require much more work.
Pedro continued doing what he did. In addition to growing the coffee, Pedro and his family harvested it by hand and processed it with great care and attention. As his colleagues had predicted, Pedro produced less coffee than they did, and with more work.
But Pedro had a very clear idea of what he wanted: to taste the first coffee his grandfather had ever given him. So he grabbed one of his sacks of coffee beans and went to the city to find a roaster.
Pedro found a coffee shop with a small roasting machine run by an older man. He asked him to let him roast his coffee, and he agreed. Pedro, tired of the burnt coffee that had become the norm—since it hid all the defects—roasted his coffee with a lighter roast.
After toasting it, he asked the coffee shop owner to prepare it. When he poured him a cup and Pedro brought it to his lips, he saw his grandfather standing in front of him, smiling broadly.
The coffee shop owner, impressed by the delicacy and complexity of this coffee, bought the entire harvest at a much higher price than the larger companies.
This is a fictional story, but it could very well be true, and it illustrates in a simple way what specialty coffee is.
What is specialty coffee?
That all the actors involved receive a worthy reward for their work is part of the philosophy of specialty coffee
The term 'specialty coffee' has become the standard for coffee lovers around the world. But what exactly is specialty coffee, and how does it differ from other types of coffee?
Specialty coffee is a term that encompasses a category of high-quality coffee characterized by its exceptional flavor, aroma, and sensory profile. It differs from commercial coffee through its careful selection of beans, sustainable farming practices, meticulous processing, and artisanal roasting.
Furthermore, in the world of specialty coffee , special attention is paid to the value chain, ensuring that all actors involved, from farmers to baristas, are recognized and rewarded for their work and dedication in producing an exceptional beverage.
In this article, we'll explore the world of specialty coffee, from its origin to how it's grown, processed, roasted, and prepared, to give you a comprehensive understanding.
Brief history of coffee
It is said that coffee was discovered when a shepherd saw his flock eating the cherries.
Coffee, a beverage appreciated and consumed around the world, has a rich and fascinating history dating back more than a thousand years.
Coffee is believed to have originated in the Kaffa region of Ethiopia, where Coffea arabica coffee trees grew wild. According to legend, an Ethiopian shepherd named Kaldi accidentally discovered the energizing effects of coffee cherries when he observed his goats dancing and jumping after consuming the red cherries from the coffee bushes.
Kaldi communicated this to a monk, who began experimenting with these cherries, grinding and mixing the seeds with animal fat to create a kind of energy food.
As knowledge of coffee spread through trade routes, it reached the Arabian Peninsula in the 15th century, where it began to be cultivated and traded on a large scale.
From commercial coffee to specialty coffee
Since our focus in this text is to explore specialty coffee, we'll jump ahead to approximately 1974.
The term 'specialty coffee' was first coined in 1974 by Erna Knutsen, a pioneer in the coffee world who dedicated her life to promoting quality and sustainability in the coffee industry.
Erna Knutsen recognized that some coffees were of exceptional quality and deserved to be distinguished from standard commercial coffees. These were single-origin coffees, small batches that large companies didn't usually want. Like the protagonist in our first story.
Through his work, many people began to understand that coffee is much more than an energy drink and differentiate it from commercial coffee , which is characterized by everything opposite to what we have defined as specialty coffee.
The current definition of the Specialty Coffee Association (SCA)
The Specialty Coffee Association ( SCA ) is a non-profit organization representing thousands of coffee professionals worldwide. The SCA has established a scoring system for classifying coffee quality.
According to the SCA, a coffee is considered specialty if it scores at least 80 points in a tasting (out of a total of 100). While this might be the most technical definition of specialty coffee, it's actually much more than that, and the score is merely an indication of the work that went into obtaining it.
Specialty Coffee: More than a Score
Altitude, climate and terroir are some of the factors that contribute to the origin of a specialty coffee.
The concept of specialty coffee has evolved over the years and now refers not only to the quality of the coffee bean , but also to the entire value chain, from cultivation and harvesting to processing, roasting, and preparation.
This means that specialty coffee must meet specific criteria at each stage of the value chain. These range from terroir, altitude, plant variety, and climate to cultivation methods, processing practices, roasting quality, and the barista's skill in preparing the coffee.
In all of this, it is very important that all actors in the value chain receive fair compensation for their work, especially producers at source.
What determines the origin of a specialty coffee?
Several factors at the source contribute to the quality of a specialty coffee, these are:
• Geographic location • Climate (temperature, humidity) • Quality of terroir • Altitude • Variety of arabica coffee chosen for cultivation • Knowledge of the coffee grower (planting, care, and harvesting)
There is no standard ideal situation, as this will vary by region. It is the combination of all these factors in a positive way that can result in great specialty coffee.
But in general, a temperate climate is required, with a rainy season and a dry season; it is recommended that it be grown at a high altitude (generally above 1,000 meters above sea level), and the knowledge and passion of the coffee grower are essential to know when and how to plant and when and how to harvest.
From cherry to specialty coffee bean
Picking cherries at their optimum ripeness is very important for quality coffee.
After cultivation, the specialty coffee production process begins with the harvesting of the coffee cherries, which contain the seeds (which later become the coffee beans).
Harvesting must be done selectively and manually to ensure that only ripe, high-quality cherries are picked. After harvesting, the coffee cherries are processed using various methods to extract the seeds and prepare them for drying.
The different processes of specialty coffee
When we talk about specialty coffee processing, we're referring to the way in which the seeds, which later become the coffee beans, are separated from the cherry, fermented, and dried.
There are several coffee processing methods that influence the flavor and quality of the final product.
These methods include washed , natural , and honey . Each process has its own characteristics and can result in distinct flavor profiles in the cup.
To understand them well, it is useful to keep in mind the anatomy of a coffee cherry.
Anatomy of a coffee cherry
Knowing the anatomy of a coffee cherry helps us understand the different processes
The coffee cherry is the fruit of the coffee tree. Coffee trees are part of the coffee plant, which is a large family. Two varieties are primarily grown for consumption: Coffea Arabica and Coffea Robusta, although for specialty coffee, the Arabica variety is almost exclusively cultivated.
Within the latter, there are many different varietals, and it is up to the coffee grower to decide which is most appropriate to plant depending on the circumstances and what they want to achieve.
The seeds, which later become the coffee beans, are obtained from the cherry. The anatomy of a coffee cherry consists of several layers, including the skin, the pulp, the mucilage layer, the parchment, and the silver layer, which surrounds the coffee bean itself. The coffee seed extraction process involves removing these layers.
Washed process coffee
The washed process is a coffee processing method that involves completely removing the pulp and mucilage from the coffee cherries through water and fermentation . Only the seeds are then left to dry.
This process results in a coffee with a cleaner, brighter flavor profile, often with pronounced acidity and aromatic complexity.
Natural process coffee
The natural process is a coffee processing method in which coffee cherries are dried with the pulp and skin intact, allowing fermentation to occur within the cherries. The cherries, pulp, and mucilage are removed once they are dry.
This process results in a sweeter, fuller-bodied flavor profile, with fruity notes and often a higher residual sugar content.
Honey-processed coffee
The honey process is a coffee processing method that combines aspects of the washed and natural coffee processes . In this process, the pulp is removed from the coffee cherries, but a variable amount of mucilage is left behind, resulting in different grades of honey (yellow, red, and black).
The flavor profile of a honey coffee can range from clean and bright to sweet and fruity, depending on the degree of honey and drying conditions.
Coffee fermentation methods
Fermentation is a method of processing specialty coffee
Fermentation is a coffee processing method that involves the fermentation of coffee. If this occurs in the absence of oxygen, it is called anaerobic fermentation .
Although all fermentation is anaerobic, in the world of specialty coffee it refers to fermentations that occur in a sealed tank and in the absence of oxygen.
This process can be carried out using different techniques, such as carbonic maceration and anaerobic fermentation, among others. Anaerobic fermentation can result in unique and complex flavor profiles, with notes of fermented fruits, flowers, and wine.
Conservation, export and transportation of green specialty coffee
Once the coffee beans have been processed and dried, they are stored under controlled conditions to preserve their quality before being exported to roasters around the world.
Green coffee transportation is a crucial aspect of the specialty coffee value chain, as storage and transportation conditions can significantly affect the coffee's quality and flavor profile.
It is important that coffee seeds are transported under adequate humidity and temperature conditions to maintain their optimal quality .
The impact of specialty coffee on countries of origin
Specialty coffee has a positive impact on the countries of origin , both socially and environmentally.
By focusing on quality and sustainability, specialty coffee encourages more environmentally friendly farming practices and promotes a fairer distribution of income throughout the coffee value chain.
The focus on biodiversity conservation and the promotion of organic and sustainable agricultural practices helps protect the ecosystem in coffee-producing regions .
Furthermore, an essential part of the specialty coffee concept is that coffee farmers receive fair compensation for their work . This improves their quality of life and has a positive impact on the local social fabric.
The work of a specialty coffee roaster
Roasters are responsible for transforming green coffee into roasted coffee.
Specialty coffee roasters play a key role in the coffee value chain, as they are responsible for transforming green coffee into roasted beans that are used to prepare the beverage.
Roasting is a process that requires technical knowledge and artistic skills, and specialty coffee roasters must be able to bring out the unique flavor profiles of each bean.
One of the pillars of specialty coffee roasters' work is a focus on quality and traceability, which means roasters often work closely with producers to ensure the sustainability and quality of the coffee.
Preservation of roasted specialty coffee
Storing coffee beans instead of grinding them before use is important to preserve their freshness and quality . Ground coffee oxidizes and loses flavor and aroma much more quickly than whole beans , so it's advisable to grind coffee just before brewing.
For this reason, roasters must package specialty coffee using heat-sealed bags with a one-way valve. This allows the expulsion of oxygen and other gases and delays the oxidation of the beans.
Proper storage of coffee beans is crucial to maintaining their quality and freshness. Coffee should be stored in a cool, dry, and dark place, preferably in an airtight container, to protect it from oxidation and degradation.
Oxidation and degassing of roasted coffee
Oxidation is a chemical process that occurs when coffee comes into contact with oxygen . This can cause the chemical compounds in the coffee to degrade, resulting in a loss of flavor and aroma. Oxidation is one of the main causes of the decline in the quality of stored coffee.
Degassing is a natural process in which roasted coffee releases carbon dioxide . This process is essential for coffee quality , as carbon dioxide can negatively affect the flavor and texture of the beverage if it isn't released before brewing. This is the reason for using heat-sealed bags with a one-way valve.
Preparing specialty coffee
To prepare a good specialty coffee it is necessary to take into account different factors
So far, we've seen, in general terms, the entire specialty coffee production process, from planting to roasting the beans, ready for their final destination. This can be a coffee shop or a private individual.
Now we'll briefly outline the factors we should consider when preparing specialty coffee . This applies whether you're preparing it in a coffee shop or at home, or wherever you prefer.
Extraction theory
Extraction theory refers to the process by which soluble compounds in ground coffee are dissolved in water to create the final beverage.
Proper extraction is crucial to achieving a balanced and enjoyable flavor in the cup, and can be affected by factors such as grind size, water temperature, and contact time between the coffee and water .
Grind size and TDS measurement
Grind size is an important factor in specialty coffee extraction, as it affects the rate at which soluble compounds dissolve in water.
A finer grind increases the surface area between the water and the coffee, which can result in faster extraction and potentially an over-extracted flavor.
On the other hand, a coarser grind can lead to slower extraction and under-extracted flavor.
Total dissolved solids (TDS) is a measure of the amount of soluble compounds present in a coffee beverage . Measuring TDS can help determine the quality and strength of coffee extraction, and is often used as a tool to evaluate and improve brewing techniques.
In this context, when we talk about grind distribution, we're referring to the uniformity of the ground coffee particle size . Uniform distribution is important for achieving even extraction and a balanced flavor in the cup.
The quality of the coffee grinder used can have a significant impact on the distribution of the grind.
How to grind coffee
Grinding coffee properly is essential for a good extraction
Grinding coffee correctly is essential for achieving proper extraction and a balanced flavor. To grind coffee, it's recommended to use a quality grinder that provides even distribution and allows you to adjust the grind size according to your brewing method and personal preferences.
Once you've reached this point, we invite you to review our specialty coffee preparation guides . They provide detailed information on how to prepare specialty coffee using different methods, such as a V60, an Aeropress, or a French press.
The specialty coffee shop and the barista
Specialty coffee shops and baristas play a pivotal role in the specialty coffee experience, as they are responsible for preparing and serving the coffee to the end consumer.
Specialty coffee baristas must be highly trained and have a deep understanding of different coffee preparation techniques, as well as the origins and characteristics of each bean.
Additionally, specialty coffee shops often act as social spaces where people can gather and enjoy specialty coffee culture.
A labor of passion
Specialty coffee is, above all, a labor of passion for coffee
Throughout this article, we've explored the complexity and depth of the world of specialty coffee, from its definition and origins to its processing, preservation, and preparation.
The passion and dedication of producers, roasters, baristas, and consumers in the pursuit of excellence in specialty coffee is what has generated and drives this beautiful culture.
By understanding the various factors that influence the quality and flavor of specialty coffee, we can appreciate and enjoy this incredible beverage even more.
If you're already familiar with it, you'll find a wide and carefully curated selection of fresh, seasonal, and freshly roasted specialty coffee in our online specialty coffee store .
And if you didn't know it , what are you waiting for to try it?
